Sand in the Coffee, Vol. 136: the back bay on a still morning, and how to paddle it without getting stranded
Put the beach chair down. The Gulf is fine, but the water worth your morning this week is on the other side of the road.
The forecast calls for dry air and sunny skies to stretch toward November, with cool mornings. That is the combination that makes the back bay behave. Out on the Gulf side the surf can be up and the flags can be anything. Behind the Key, the sound and the lagoon are tucked out of the swell, and on a still morning they turn to glass.
why the bay is the better paddle right now
Summer back-bay water is crowded with pontoons, jet skis and wakes. The cooler months thin all that out. You get slick calm, a lot of birds, and a view of the Key from the water that most visitors never see.
where to put in
Big Lagoon State Park is the easy, well-known choice on the Florida side. Check the park’s own site for hours and any fee before you go, since both can change. Orange Beach has its own bay-side launches, and the right one depends on where you are staying. Ask your rental host which public launch is closest, and do not paddle off from private docks.
the rules of a good morning
- Go early. Wind builds as the day warms. A paddle that starts glassy at 8 can turn into a slog by noon, and the trip back is always the one that gets you.
- Check the wind before you leave. Pull up /beach-today/ for the current wind reading, and plan your route so the wind is in your face on the way out and at your back coming home.
- Wear the life jacket. Not under the seat. On you. It is the single easiest way to stay out of a story.
- Bring water and a charged phone in a dry bag. Nobody ever regretted bringing both.
- Stay out of channels. Boats use the channels and a kayak is hard to see. Cross them quickly, at right angles, and never linger.
the storm leftovers
It is still the month after Isaias. Debris can sit in the water or along the shoreline in places, and some launches and docks may be closed or damaged. Look before you push off. A submerged branch or board will take a paddle out of your hands, or worse. If a launch is blocked off, take that as a firm answer and pick another one.
what to look for
Herons, pelicans and ospreys work the shallows on a quiet morning. Mullet jump for no reason anyone has ever explained. If a dolphin shows up, stop paddling and let it pass. They don’t need your help.
the plan
Be on the water by 7:30, off by 10:30, and have your coffee afterward. You will have earned it, and the bay will still be there tomorrow.
— Chris
P.S. If you run a place on the Key or in Orange Beach and it’s on this site, it’s yours to claim — free, always: /submit/claim/
