Sand in the Coffee, Vol. 149: the bay side, and where to go when the Gulf won't cooperate
Put the car in reverse. The Gulf is not the only water we have.
Every few weeks in the fall the beach side turns into a washing machine: wind from the wrong direction, a swell that rolls in long after the weather has passed, a red flag that has nothing to do with the sky overhead. Visitors stand at the dune walkover, look at it, and decide the day is a loss. Locals shrug and drive to the other side of the island.
the other water
Perdido Key is a skinny strip. On one side is the Gulf. On the other is the back bay, the protected water behind the island, and a little farther across it sits Big Lagoon State Park. The bay doesn’t catch the Gulf’s swell the same way, so on a day when the beach is rough the bay can be glassy. Same wind, a very different afternoon.
how to do it
- Check first. Look at /beach-today/ for the flag and conditions. Or look at the cam at /live-cam/ and see for yourself whether the surf is up. If the Gulf looks angry and the flag agrees, that’s your cue.
- Go in the middle of the day. In November the bay is cold in the early morning. Aim for late morning through early afternoon, and plan to be heading back before the light starts to go. Sunset comes early now.
- Bring the quiet gear. A kayak or paddleboard if you have one, binoculars, a thermos, and a layer you can take off. The bay is a place for watching and paddling slowly, not for a big swim.
- Look up and out. Shorebirds and herons work the edges, and the marsh grass holds more life than you’d guess from the road. Move slowly and you’ll see more.
- Confirm the details at the gate. Hours, fees and what’s allowed in the water change, so check the park’s current information before you drive over rather than trusting anyone’s memory, mine included.
what to expect
Fewer people, flatter water, and a pace that suits a gray or breezy day. It won’t feel like the beach, and that’s the point. It’s the thing to do when the beach has said no.
the short version
If the Gulf is rough, don’t write off the day. Cross to the bay side, go mid-day, bring a thermos and binoculars, and check the park’s current hours before you leave.
— Chris
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